A globetrotter uber lifestyle in Istanbul

Istanbul, Turkey, has been acknowledged for centuries as one of the most important cities in the world, dating back to the Roman and Ottoman Empires.

Known in the history books as Constantinople, it is truly a melting pot between the cultures of the east and the west, resulting in today’s Istanbul being a city rich with cultural heritage.

These days Istanbul’s beautiful landscape is no longer dotted with just historical heritage, as new and modern establishments have appeared and have become a part of Istanbul.

Some establishments have renovated their historical buildings and given them a new facade and some have decided to build entirely new buildings. If you are one of the world’s globetrotters and are eager to enjoy the luxury of an ubër lifestyle, then you will find Istanbul your new playground haven.

Sumahan on the Water is the jewel of Bosporus. An establishment that dates back to 1875, Sumahan began as a liquor factory —that is until four years ago when architects transformed this site into a beautiful boutique hotel. But Sumahan owes its true beauty to its spectacular location— on the banks of the great Bosporus strait.

It is a priceless experience to wake up in the morning and be welcomed by this incredibly beautiful view. Every room is like a little villa with its own living room and fireplace. No matter which room you stay in, the morning will greet you with that glorious view.

Staying in Sumahan is like staying in a friend’s villa —one that is equipped with personalized services. Start your perfect day by having a delicious homemade breakfast with its delicacies— Turkish style. Don’t forget to try Turkish traditional bread simit (sesame bread) with butter —you are guaranteed to have a great start to your day.

One way to enjoy Istanbul is by cruising around the Bosporus strait by boat. You can cross to Istanbul’s European side by boat provided by Sumahan and visit majestic sites such as Aya Sophia Mosque and The Topkapi Palace. Or you can forget all the tourist attractions and instead enjoy a traditional bath and massage in Sumahan’s hammam. It is the perfect way to release all your stress and feel rejuvenated.

After a long day adventuring in Istanbul, there is only one perfect way to end it and that is by sipping a glass of Turkish red wine while relaxing in your room, gazing out through its wide window, You can hear the Bosporus’ flowing water while enjoying the lights on Ortakoy’s bridge which change color every few minutes. It is just the way Istanbul was meant to be seen.

The Sunset restaurant on Ulus Hill is one of the most renowned spots for Istanbul’s crème de la crème to be seen —as well as the world’s jetsetter. They have all the required elements to be at the top of the competition. With its breath-taking views, The Sunset has a modern yet sophisticated ambiance and décor that is perfected with top-notch cuisine guaranteed to please everyone —even hard-core gastronomes.

In addition to fine, authentic local selections you will also find Japanese cuisine. To prepare the Japanese menu The Sunset has brought a highly experienced Japanese chef from London, Hiroki Takemura. Chef Hiroki’s talent can be enjoyed through his custom-made menu or fusion.

During our last visit we enjoyed his creation of steamed sea bass with black bean sauce with a touch of truffle oil.

As for the Turkish cuisine, selections such as the Mediterranean plate and lamb shank guarantee total satisfaction. Add a bottle of Veuve Cliquot and you will surely have an unforgettable memory. Without a doubt, The Sunset is a must-visit restaurant when you are in Istanbul!

To increase the well-being between your body and soul in a holistic manner is what The LifeCo offers. Located in Akatlar district where most of Istanbul’s high society reside, The LifeCo is simply one of the city’s hottest institutions when it comes to treating your entire being.

With its wide selection, The LifeCo offers options from a detoxification program —which includes a custom-made program for your body and even a mind detox program —to self-pampering such as through massage and its traditional hammam. They have created a concept that enables you to experience this entire program without disturbing your daily routine.

It is The LifeCo’s goal to balance and achieve harmony among body, mind and soul for every client. This is achieved through various means, such as colon cleansing, yoga ashtangi, a custom-made organic menu and dietary supplements. They balance this with pampering through a solar sauna, mint steam bath and of course the traditional hammam treatment for exfoliation.

If this is your first time at The LifeCo, their friendly attendants will assist and give you all the required information. In a city such as Istanbul, where English is not its major language, it’s a delight to visit an establishment where English is spoken fluently.

If you are planning to visit Istanbul, then we highly recommend that you increase your well-being by obtaining a healthier lifestyle through The LifeCo. It is an experience that ensures you will feel rejuvenated with complete satisfaction.

The LifeCO

Abdi Ipekci Cad 26/8
Nisantasi 34367
Istanbul, Turkiye
Tel: +902122196826
Website: www.thelifeco.com

The Sunset Restaurant

Adnan Saygun Cad. Yol Sok.
Ulus Parki No. 2
Ulus, Turkiye
Tel: +902122870357
Email: info@sunsetgrillbar.com

Sumahan on the Water

Kuleli Caddesi No. 51
Cengelkoy
34684 Istanbul, Turkey
Tel: +90 216 422 8000
Email: info@sumahan.com
Website: www.epoquehotels.com

Refreshing the body and mind in Bintan

Quiet and calm alcoves on Bintan Island, Riau Islands province, are pleasant places for leisurely swims in the sea.

Bintan is relatively unknown, but perhaps this is why it is a place of such great surprises.

"This is just like being in Bali, only much quieter," said a visitor, referring to the picturesque beaches he's spot on.

But in some important ways, Bintan is quite different.

For one thing, Bintan -- a resort island in Riau Islands province -- is a relative unknown next to its internationally acclaimed counterpart.

But Bintan certainly is an international locale. It may be an island in Indonesia but many of its visitors come from or via Singapore.

This is reflected in the fact that most things are priced in Singaporean dollars, which in turn makes the island relatively expensive compared to others in Indonesia.

Bintan sits between Borneo and the Malaysian peninsular, just two islands or 40 minutes east of Singapore.

But Bintan is much larger than its city-state neighbor, however less developed. Save the string of resorts, which has sprung up on its northern shores, the island remains largely untouched.

Most visitors arrive in Bintan on high speed ferries from nearby islands.

Many visitors to Bintan arrive by boat, as "island hoppers", effectively served by a port that brings a procession of ferries from the surrounding islands daily. At this port, a veritable convoy of buses awaits to whisk visitors away to their respective resorts.

The road to the resorts is surrounded by thick greenery; there is little or no sign of human habitation here and at times it feels as though the forests' undergrowth is about to engulf the roadway.

It is only as the buses turn on up the long driveways leading to the resorts that some signs of life begin to show.

Reaching the northern shore, the dense greenery parts to reveal the manicured environs of not one, but four golf courses.

Getting of the bus, the first sounds one hears is the whir of lawn mowers, tending to the greens. Drivers busily buzz around and over the greens and fairways as attendants carefully rake the white sands of the bunkers.

Golf then, is perhaps the most prominent pastime at the resorts of Bintan, but there are plenty of other options for those not fond of the fairway.

Archery facilities, all terrain vehicles for a slog through the jungle, go carts, a paintball arena and "laser quest" zones can all be found along the shore.

In addition to these land-based activities there is, not surprisingly, a range of water activities to be enjoyed.

From windsurfing, jet skis and banana boats to kayaks diving and fishing from a traditional sampan, the waters surrounding Bintan offer something for everyone.

It is possible, therefore, to be highly active in Bintan. But those looking to take it easy also have many options.

Bintan's north shore has long and mostly empty beaches that allow for peaceful walks on simply lying on the sand next to the tranquil water, absorbing some warm rays.

The surf here is gentle and limited, the waters are calm and practically lagoon-like. Dotted along the shore are pleasant little coves offering seclusion in which to take a dip.

This is perhaps the best thing about Bintan -- it is quiet and restful. Thanks to the fact that it does not have the prominence and notoriety of a place like Bali, it is possible to be free of crowds here.

The resort hotels that have been developed here are really quite large and can accommodate very large numbers of tourists.

From the usual centralized hotel with swimming pool and restaurant to beach front villas, the range of accommodation offered is quite diverse.

All of this accommodation spreads out over a large area, so there is no feeling of congestion and/or over-development as there can be in places like Bali.

Many of the resorts exist as entities unto themselves. They are in effect bases for holiday-makers for which there is no need to stray.

Should you, however, crave a taste of the island beyond the resort compound, there are a few locations, worth checking out.

A nearby elephant park allows visitors the chance to ride a real-life Sumatran elephant.

For a peek of the local culture visit the village of Sri Bintan Kampung, where age old crafts and traditions may be observed. The more adventurous and physical fit can trek up Gunung Bintan, the highest point on the island.

Shopping is also on the agenda, at Pasar Oleh-Oleh, where dozens of shops huddled together cater to the tourist market. Perhaps disappointingly though, much of what is on sale here could be found in Jakarta or Bali -- in other words, it is very touristy.

But souvenirs are secondary and hardly necessary. What the visitor will take away from Bintan and its resorts is a relaxing and refreshing experience.

Bintan may not be so famous as Bali but it is well worth a visit, the body and mind will thank you.

The best areas to stay on Lombok

Lombok geographically is almost the same size as Bali and, just as there are popular tourist areas on Bali, so Lombok offers a variety of destinations to suit different holidaymakers' tastes. Following is an overview of the most popular areas to stay in Lombok.

Senggigi is the main tourist area on the mainland, with the town stretching along several fantastic bays on the west coast, and is only 20 minutes from the island's Selaparang airport. It is the ideal base from which to explore the island, and all major tourist attractions can be reached by day trips from Senggigi, including boat trips from Senggigi Bay out to the Gilis. There is a wide range of accommodations ranging from the five-star Sheraton Senggigi Beach Resort to elegant private villas to comfortable small hotels and home stays. The main street in town runs parallel to the beach and is lined with restaurants, shops, banks, moneychangers and other tourist facilities. Nowhere near as developed as Kuta in Bali, Senggigi is a delightful place to stay while relaxing, dining and exploring.

Senggigi Bay is a large clean beach around which Senggigi has developed, with resorts running from the beach to the main road. The beach is a great place to hang out, sunbath and enjoy a massage, or swim and snorkel in the clear waters. The Pasar Seni (Art Market) faces onto the beach, with restaurants and bars overlooking the bay and small shops selling souvenirs, clothes and handicrafts in the market behind. The beachfront hotels and restaurants are good places to watch the magical Lombok sunsets, when the sun sinks into the ocean behind Bali, silhouetting the volcanoes against the sky.

Slightly farther north, the resort areas of Kerandangan and Mangsit offer a variety of good accommodations, including the stylish Qunci Villas, Puri Mas Boutique Resorts, Windy Beach Resort and Holiday Resort. The beaches here have white sand and clear turquoise waters and are largely deserted.

At night, there is a great range of entertainment on offer, as well as fabulous dining in some of the Senggigi restaurants. There's international fine dining, cuisines ranging from Thai, Japanese, Mexican and Korean (to name a few), or spicy local Lombok fare all on offer. A number of restaurants and bars have live entertainment with talented local bands playing popular music at night; and there are several nightclubs and discos featuring top bands, DJs and guest stars from around the nation. Senggigi caters to all types of holidaymakers - there are budget options for travelers, romantic options for couples and honeymooners, and wonderful places for families with children of all ages.

The Gili Islands are one of the most popular destinations on Lombok; every year thousands of people flock to these three small islands just off the northwest coast of Lombok. With many fast boat options such as Gili Cat and Blue Water Express providing easy transfers between the Gilis and Bali, the islands have become a popular getaway not just for overseas travelers but for those living on Bali too.

Each of the islands has a distinctively different "feel", which makes them an ideal destination for any type of traveler looking for the tropical island idyll. Gili Air is the island closest to the mainland and has a good range of accommodations, ranging from comfortable hotels to small budget home stays. The pace is very laidback, with days spent sunbathing on the clean beaches, diving in the great locations around the island and snorkeling the reefs just off shore. At night, the mood is relaxed with small warung and restaurants offering fresh seafood barbecues and local cuisine, and live music at some of the bars. Gili Meno is the middle island of the three Gilis and the quietest of the three - perfect for couples and families. The beaches are beautiful and safe for swimming, with good snorkeling just off the beach. This is the best place to see turtles in their natural environment and the dive operators on the island can help you discover the fine dive sites nearby. There are some small upmarket hotels, as well as bungalows on the beach and budget places from which to choose. If walking along a deserted beach under the stars is what you are looking for, Gili Meno has loads of atmosphere. Gili Trawangan is the most famous of the Gilis and the farthest from the mainland, although still only 10 minutes away by speedboat. Here the feel is "tropical island meets Seminyak", due to the number of upmarket eateries and villa developments that have sprung up on the island over the past couple of years. There is such a wide range of accommodation now available on Gili T (as it's known) that you can choose anything from a simple thatched bungalow on the beach to a luxury villa with private swimming pool. Dive companies abound on the island and many people come to Gili T to learn scuba diving, although the snorkeling is good and there are a number of other water activities available, including sunset cruises and glass bottom boat trips. Originally the domain of backpackers, Gili T is definitely now a place for all people - from budget travelers, to honeymooners to families. Something for everyone!

Kuta, the main tourist area on the south coast of Lombok, is not to be confused with its famous namesake in Bali. Kuta, Lombok, is a peaceful beach destination that has found fame due to the great surf locations that surround the small town. The beaches of the south coast are sublime, with sparkling white sand and clear blue oceans stretching to the horizon. Many people come to the area just to view some of the most stunning landscapes in Indonesia. Many more come to challenge the waves that roll off the peninsulas of nearby Gerupuk and Tanjung A'an.

Most of the accommodations in the area cater for the surf crowd, with lots of budget places, although there are a couple of mid-range hotels and some nice small hotels dotted along the beach toward Mandalika. The Novotel Lombok (Mandalika Resort) is located on the pristine beachfront here, and features luxurious accommodation in traditionally designed bungalows and villas.

In town are a number of good restaurants with cuisine ranging from simple local dishes to international fare, while on the hilltop overlooking the stunning coastline is the popular Ashtari Restaurant, serving delicious organic cuisine in a truly delightful setting. If you are looking for a laidback holiday location with lots of sunshine, uncrowded beaches, awe-inspiring views and plenty of accessible local culture, Kuta is the place for you!

Buleleng to develop Lake Buyan

Pristine view: A view of Lake Tamblingan, one of three lakes in central Bali being sought after by developers and investors as the island’s next potential tourism hotspot. Lake Tamblingan is part of a three-lake system within a massive caldera in Buleleng regency. The two others are the Buyan and Beratan lakes.

The regency of Buleleng may be getting another fancy tourism spot as the regent plans to invest money to develop Lake Buyan into an “ecotourism heaven”.

Buleleng Regent Putu Bagiada and investors from PT Anantara said both parties were ready to invest money into developing Lake Buyan into a “Buyan Ecotourism Heaven,” the area’s new name if the plan gets approved.

“We want to restore this area to its original grandeur, with its original culture and its original look,” Bagiada said at the Bali governor’s office Friday.

“This is the concept behind our plan to turn Lake Buyan into ‘Buyan Ecotourism Heaven.’”
Located in the Sukasada district, Lake Buyan is one of the triplet lakes situated within a massive caldera. A vast wild forest separates Lake Buyan from Lake Tamblingan on its west, while on its east lies Lake Beratan.

So far only the area around Lake Beratan has been developed into a tourist destination. Its close proximity with Eka Karya, the island’s largest botanical garden, has made Lake Beratan a favorite weekend getaway for the residents of Bali’s southern urban cities.

Lake Beratan also hosts Ulun Danu, one of the most important water temples on the island.
The three lakes have been getting shallower over the years due to sedimentation and were declared a priority for environmental damage mitigation by the State Ministry for the Environment last year.

Much of the blame for the sedimentation has been aimed at the construction of villas in the areas. Environmental groups say the villas take away water absorption space, causing mud to be carried along into the lakes.

The local agricultural practices, which use chemical fertilizers, have also been blamed for ruining the quality of the lake water.

When asked about what would change if Anantara were to be given the mandate to develop Lake Buyan, Anantara commissioner Liliah Sukoco said the company’s main concern was to maintain the area’s natural beauty.

“I understand the concern over further environmental degradation when a private company manages an environmental spot, but you have to understand that in order to maintain this lake, the local economy has to be improved,” she said.

She said Anantara’s plans to develop the 60-hectare area in and around Lake Buyan, which could absorb up to 1,000 workers, and that one of the company’s plans was to dredge the land under the lake bed to allow it to absorb more water and soil.

“But these are just plans, we are still waiting for the governor’s recommendation before we decide how we want to proceed,” she said.

Bali Governor Made Mangku Pastika did not make any statement on Friday’s presentation, saying only he would consider the proposal.

“We will look into the possible benefits of PT Anantara’s plans,” he said.

German Christmas markets sparkle in season

An illuminated tree is seen in front of the Christmas market in Duisburg, western Germany.

This time of year, the Christmas spirit descends on Germany's cities and towns in the form of wooden stalls laden with pretzels, toys and baked goods of all shapes and sizes.

More than 130 places in Germany host Christmas markets, each one emphasizing regional specialties and flair. The celebrations have developed into an art form, with handcrafted wooden ornaments, elaborate nativity displays and delectable treats that would leave Santa and his reindeer turning up their noses at mere cookies and milk.

The markets are a major tourist attraction, drawing visitors from around the world. But the markets also draw on centuries of Christmas traditions in this country where the Protestant Reformation took root and where the current pope was born, with some customs dating back to the Middle Ages.

Dresden and Nuremberg compete for the oldest and most famous Christmas markets.

Dresden, in Germany's east, boasts the Striezelmarkt, the oldest documented Christmas market in the country, dating to 1434. It is the home of the largest "Christmas pyramid" — a 45-foot-high wood structure lit with candles that spin the tiers of the decorated pyramid.

The tradition for Christmas wood carving comes from the Erzgebirge, or "Ore mountains," an old mining region south of the city that borders the Czech Republic. Nutcrackers and "smoking men" incense holders were originally created here.

The Stollen Festival is another highlight of the market, with the largest loaf of Christstollen — a buttery, spiced loaf weighing between 3 and 4 tons — cut here and served to visitors on Dec. 8.

In Nuremberg in Bavaria, the city's Christkindlmarkt is perhaps the most famous of all the markets, counting some 2 million visitors from Japan, the U.S., China, all over Europe and elsewhere around the world every year.

They come for the Lebkuchen, a spicy gingerbread baked here since 1395 and "3 in a Weggla," which are tiny Nuremberg wursts, served three little sausages abreast in a bun with spicy mustard. The Christkind, an angelic or fairy-like character, is the symbol of the market, and a woman with golden hair and a crown opens the market each year with her Christmas proclamation and hears the Christmas gift wishes of the children.

In Frankfurt am Main's historical center, the Dom Roemer transforms from its post-World War II reconstruction of history into a wonderland of carousel music, bundled groups of people laughing around cauldrons of hot spiced wine called Gluehwein, and thick clusters of gingerbread hearts laden with hardened frosting.

In Aachen, bakeries offer their famous Aachener Printen gingerbread and marzipan bread. In Berlin, the 17th-century Charlottenburger Palace is brilliantly illuminated behind the market, and the Jewish Museum hosts a combined Hanukkah-Christmas market with kosher delicacies.

The popularity of the Christmas markets has spread around the world, inspiring copies in Britain, the United States and elsewhere.

The German American Chamber of Commerce was inspired to create a market in Chicago after Nuremberg's Christkindlmarkt, and even has the Nuremberg's former Christkind, Eva Sattler, an original Nuremberger, opening the market with a traditional proclamation.

Phoenix on a budget: New rail line, hikes, golf

In Phoenix, there's nothing a trip to the golf course can't fix. It's a warm winter escape for those who can afford a second home, and it basks in the spa-facial glow of being a place where people will pay a lot for five-star fun.

But for those with shallow pockets, the Valley of the Sun has budget-friendly options mixing an urban identity with access to nature. It's not every big city where you can scale a mountain, sample authentic Mexican food and take in a free art show - all in one day.

A Metro light rail train pulls into downtown Phoenix for the first time during a test of the new regional commuter rail system in Phoenix.

TRANSPORTATION: Phoenix's $1.4 billion Metro Light Rail debuts Dec. 27. The 20-mile line will stretch from northwest Phoenix to neighboring Tempe and Mesa. The train will be free for the first two days. The grand opening will have music, activities and exhibits at stops along the track.

In chichi Scottsdale, take advantage of the free trolley. The purple street car runs every 10 minutes, from Oldtown Scottsdale, brimming with local eateries, bars and shops selling Native American arts and crafts, to the art galleries lining Main Street. The free Scottsdale Art Walk is every Thursday evening.

The trolley also stops by the waterfront, where restaurants and shops line the canal.

A rental car may be your best bet for metropolitan Phoenix and day trips. The city's streets are laid out like a grid, making it hard to get lost.

TAKE A HIKE: Hiking in Arizona is fun even in winter. Piestewa Peak, formerly Squaw Peak, at 2,608 feet tall, offers miles of trails inside Phoenix Mountains Park and Recreation area.

Camelback Mountain.

More adventurous hikers can scale Camelback Mountain's sandstone hump. At 2,704 feet, Camelback's two main summit trails amount to a 1,200-foot gain in elevation, with less arduous trails near the base.

For easy strolls or mountain bike rides, head to Papago Park, where there's little elevation amid the woods, desert sandstone and fields.

Sedona and its red mountain majesties are a two-hour drive north. Take a hike and survey the grandiosity of the red rock formations at the hilltop Chapel of the Holy Cross, an aesthetic marvel. Parking is free; the view is priceless.

Halfway between Sedona and Phoenix lies the city of Prescott. The folksy downtown, anchored by the historic Courthouse Plaza, has a warm small-town ambiance. Restaurants, boutiques and live music are abundant. But the Old West heritage is still very much alive. Stroll Whiskey Row, a block once full of nothing but saloons. Have a drink at The Palace Restaurant and Saloon, whose past patrons include Wyatt Earp and Doc Holliday. Venture farther out to Prescott National Forest, which has five lakes and more than 450 miles of trails for hiking, horseback riding or mountain biking.

GOLF: Home to 200 golf courses, many of them PGA-champion caliber, metro Phoenix has long been a luxury golf destination. But there are bargain rates too. For the winter, the city's eight municipal courses charge between $34 and $43 for 18 holes. Fees slide to $18-$25 if you tee off after 1 p.m. At Palo Verde Golf Course, nine holes cost just $10.

Each course has a unique layout. For first-time visitors, head to Aguila Golf Course at the base of South Mountain, with lovely vistas of the Sonoran desert. Book tee times at least a week before.

If conventional golf isn't your thing, try flicking a flying disc at a disc golf course fitted with "tee boxes" and baskets mounted on poles. If you're new to the game, stop by Spinners on the Green, a disc golf equipment and apparel store in Scottsdale, for help. Spinners also rents bikes, $10 an hour.

There are two disc golf locations in Phoenix and Scottsdale, the latter located along a 25-mile multi-use path known as the Indian Bend Wash.

ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT: Artists, musicians and vendors take over downtown Phoenix streets for an artwalk the first Friday of each month. Visit galleries or shop for everything from jewelry to decorated cigar boxes.

For more highbrow art, check out the Phoenix Art Museum, free on Tuesdays, 3-9 p.m. and during First Fridays, 6-10 p.m.,. Current exhibitions include 54 drawings by artist Elihu Vedder and the fashion evolution of the jumpsuit.

The Phoenix Desert Botanical Garden, teeming with desert plants, is hosting Dale Chihuly's "The Nature of Glass" through May 31. Chihuly's dazzling glass sculptures have been installed throughout the garden, even hanging from the roof. Admission is $15 (students, $7.50 with ID; $5 ages 3-12).

The Arizona Mining and Mineral Museum, 1502 W. Washington St., has a small building but a big collection of more than 3,000 rocks, fossils and minerals, including an 8-foot hunk of copper, lunar rocks from the first Moon landing and precious gems and minerals local to Arizona. Admission is $2 (free ages 17 and under).

HOLIDAY HAPPENINGS: Chances for a white Christmas in Phoenix are slim to none, but there are other holiday scenes. APS, the state's largest utility.

Glendale, the suburb west of Phoenix that played host to the Super Bowl last February, is operating Glendale Glitters until Jan. 17, illuminating downtown with 1.5 million lights for 12 blocks.

Just north of Phoenix, the town of Carefree, with street names like Ho Hum Road and Easy Street, is planning a Currier & Ives-style Christmas Festival, its first, Dec. 12-14, complete with town crier, carolers, horse carriage rides, roasted chestnuts and hot chocolate. The entire town center will be blanketed in fake snow.

In Scottsdale, McCormick-Stillman Railroad Park displays 100,000 lights, Dec. 12-Jan. 3. Tracks go for one mile; ride admission is $2.

CHEAP CHOW: Mexican immigrants have brought culinary gems to north Phoenix's Sunnyslope neighborhood, also known as "Little Oaxaca." At Los Reyes de la Torta, 9230 N. 7th St., good luck scarfing down an entire torta. The choices for these Mexican sandwiches vary, with the most voluminous being the Del Rey - ham, breaded beef, sausage, refried beans, eggs, melted cheese, avocado, tomato, onion and jalapenos stuffed between a crisp, white roll. Wash it down with an agua fresca (strawberry, mango, watermelon, pineapple or cinnamon-flavored horchata).

On the opposite side of town, lunch can be crowded at Carolina's Mexican Food, 1202 E. Mohave St. Carolina Valenzuela has been serving up handmade tortillas since 1968. Many in central Phoenix say the prices and quality are worth the drive.

Matt's Big Breakfast, 801 N. First St., is a beloved downtown staple. The owners boast big portions, local organic ingredients, waffles made from scratch and the Chop and Chick (two eggs and a skillet-seared pork chop), plus sandwiches and salads. The line of waiting customers outside the small red brick building sometimes starts before 7 a.m.

Baku: An exciting place to explore

Are you looking for a new exotic place to explore? Do you want to see features of both Asian and European cultures in one city? Do you want to see a city where Muslims, Jews and Christians live in harmony? Then Azerbaijan's capital Baku -- the pearl of the Caspian Sea -- is the place for you.

Azerbaijan, a small but oil-rich country in the South Caucasus, is the new kid on the block of the world tourism industry.

More than 90 percent of its population is Shiite Muslim. It is not, however, an orthodox country. It has one of the most modern, secular, liberal, tolerant and open societies in the Islamic world.

"We had a very difficult period of being unknown in the world tourism market due to the situation in Nagorno-Karabakh," Azerbaijan's Minister of Culture and Tourism, Abulfas Qarayev, told The Jakarta Post recently.

Nagorno-Karabakh, an Azerbaijan territory, was seized by Armenian troops in a 1990s war.

Azerbaijan's beauty, richness, culture and ultimately its geostrategic position -- a juncture on the Great Silk Road, between the Mediterranean, Caspian, Black and Azov seas -- has attracted various tribes, travelers, invaders, traders and missionaries throughout history. More recent patrons include oil companies and even film director Michael Apted, who shot parts of the 1999 Bond film The World is not Enough here.

In this former Soviet Union state of 8.7 million people, Baku has everything.

"It was a surprise for me. Baku looks like more an European city than an Asian one," Laura Shuurmans, a Jakarta-based free-lance writer, said recently.

A city rich in culture and history, Baku has unique and varied architecture -- ranging from grand mansions with Roman and Gothic themes to a walled old city complete with cobbled streets, narrow alleys, ancient buildings and interesting historical places.

As in any other ancient city, the best and easiest way is to explore Baku is on foot. While in Baku, there is one place you will go to, more than once. In Baku all roads lead to Fountain Square. If it is dining and shopping you're after, or simply looking to meet up with friends and enjoy the night life, head to Fountain Square. It's the most popular place in the city for locals and visitors alike.

Built in the 1860s by the famous Azerbaijani architect Hajibababeyov (1811-1874), Fountain Square is home to numerous Western-style shops, restaurants, cafes and bars. Here you can find street hawkers and a playground for children: It's the spot to hang out. It's on Sunday evenings however, that the square really comes alive. A parade of beautiful Azeri girls hit the town and everybody wants to be there.

Baku or Baki (which means a city of winds in the Azeri language) is in fact comprised of three cities -- the old town (Cheri Shekher), the boom town and the Soviet-built town.

Tourists will find the walled old town, a world heritage site, the most interesting as all the major attractions of Baku are found here.

Baku's landmark Maiden's Tower, a key shapped medieval tower, stands tall on the shore of Caspian Sea. The tower is a place worth seeing in Baku city.

Every city has its landmark and for Baku it's Maiden's Tower, a medieval tower with a strange keyhole shape. Built as a guard tower and observatory in 12th century, Maiden's Tower or Kiz Kulesi is worth seeing. There are many stories to explain how it was named, the most accepted being that a maiden committed suicide by jumping from the top. Local people told us that distressed people still sometimes repeat maiden's act.

A set of stairs will take you to the top of the tower, which, at a height of more than 30 meters will provide good exercise. From the top you will find the best view of Baku and the Caspian Sea.

But beware of the biting wind, which comes rolling off the rough Caspian Sea and sweeps through the city's streets.

The Shirvanshah's Palace, a 15th century royal palace, is a must see tourist site in Baku.

Another of Baku's historical attractions is the Shirvanshah's Palace, a 15th century royal palace with a mosque, minaret and mausoleum.

On our way to Shirvanshah's Palace, there were numerous tempting artisan and carpet shops. But prices of these items are as high as the Maiden's Tower. Don't worry thought, if you have a local guide or bargaining skills developed from years of shopping at Tanah Abang market, the prices will come down by more than half.

It is easy to loose your way in the labyrinthine old city. But not to worry, just hail a cab and ask to go to the usual place: Fountain Square. The most surprising thing was that even the locals sometimes get lost. This is because Baku is changing very fast, due to the oil boom. Many Azeris, however, point out that they are not part of the boom.

The rapid influx of oil dollars means that the whole city looks as if it is in a beauty parlor. Multistory buildings are being constructed, old buildings and roads are undergoing renovations -- all over the city.

In the evening, one should not miss beautiful Boulevard. Running parallel to Baku's sea front, Azeri people enjoy leisurely strolls here. The 100-year-old Boulevard, now a national park, is also a popular spot for young lovers. The streets, decorated with lights, add to the ambiance.

Baku is also home to numerous museums. My favorite was the State Museum of Azerbaijani Carpets and Decorative Applied Arts (formerly the Lenin Museum), which has a very rich collection of centuries-old colorful carpets. The Azerbaijan State Museum of Art, State History Museum, Museum of Independence and the Museum of Musical Culture of Azerbaijan are also worth a visit.

The city also has a vibrant nightlife -- you can find music ranging from disco and jazz to operas and classical Azeri dances. One can even enjoy belly dancing at one of the caravansarai's (ancient inn) in the old town.

A picturesque view of Baku Bay. Baku city has been undergoing a complete modernization, thanks to its oil boom.

On the outskirts of the city, you can explore not only numerous beaches, but also places like Gobustan, where 12,000-year-old rock carvings are preserved, and Ateshgah -- a Zoroastrian fire temple built in the 18th century.

Near Baku, the most interesting place in Azerbaijan is Oil Rocks, a town on the Caspian Sea. Built during the Soviet era, Oil Rocks has 200 kilometers of streets built on a former landfill. It is here that several scenes of The World is not Enough were shot. Further away from Baku you will find tourist places like Sheki, Ganja and Guba.

The most interesting part of the experience is the great Azeri cuisine, which is similar to Turkish food. Lamb kebabs, dolmas, caviar, yogurt soups, salads, bread, pillav and tomatoes, as well as many fresh fruits, will make your mouth water.

Baku and Azerbaijan in general are blessed with so many qualities that will provide fond memories for tourists. But it is above all, their warmness, generosity and hospitality that Azeri people are well known for. Last year around 1.3 million tourists visited Azerbaijan, a veritable leap from the 44,934 who came in 1995.

Baku has all the ingredients, and has invested billions of oil dollars, to ensure its spot as a popular international destination in the years to come. It might just be that one has to hurry up to see the original Baku, before it turns into a new star in global tourism industry.

Travel tips

Getting there: The United Arab Emirates' Emirates airlines flies daily from Jakarta to Dubai. From Dubai Azerbaijan Airlines (AZAL) flies to Baku six times in a week and from Baku to Dubai seven times a week. A two-way ticket may cost approximately US$1,800.

What to see

Fountain Square, Maiden's Tower, Shirvanshah's Palace, Old town (Cheri Shekher), Gobustan, Ateshgah fire temple, State Art Gallery, State Museum of Azerbaijani Carpets and Decorative Applied Arts, Boulevard, Oil Rocks in Baku and surrounding areas

Where to stay

Hyatt Regency, Holiday Inn, Absheron Hotel, Caspian Palace, and Radisson SAS Plaza and numerous budget hotels

Where to eat and what to eat

Karavanserai: An underground restaurant in the midst of walled city. The food is traditional Azeri with lots of lamb and Caspian fish. There are also regular Azeri music, magic shows and belly dance.
Yacht Restaurant: This yacht-shaped expensive restaurant on Caspian Sea offers delicious Azeri food and drinks.

Currency

One can bring in unlimited foreign currency to Baku with proper declaration. But you can't take Azeri currency manats out of the country. Azeri manat might be stronger than U.S. dollar but it is not accepted outside Azerbaijan. All manats must be exchanged before we leave Baku.